There was never a chance Steve Palmer wasn’t going to become a chef. Ever since he was a child growing up in Newport, Palmer has lived a life of food. “My dad showed me two things growing up—cooking and cars,” he recalls. After school, Palmer worked for a fish company where he saw his first “real kitchen” and during the summer, he spent his days with friends spear-fishing seafood meals such as lobster, crab, and all sorts of fresh fish. The most inspiring book he read was about renowned chef Jacques Pipin, and for higher education he chose culinary school at Santa Barbara city college with the financial help and support of his grandmother. After graduating number one in his class, Palmer was recruited into the kitchen of Louise restaurant at the Upham hotel in Santa Barbara, where he was amazingly promoted to executive chef within three months. Seventeen years later, Palmer has reached what he considers the pinnacle of his professional career. He is the chef of Mariposa at Neiman Marcus in Fashion Island.
It’s no wonder Palmer feels the way he does. “Mariposa is my baby,” he says, explaining that he’s been with the restaurant as executive chef since its birth in February 2004. “Here, I can make a living doing what I love at a place I love.”
Mariposa as a place to eat is difficult to beat. The hip, trendy restaurant located on the store’s third floor is not just the only place in Orange County where a diner of upscale contemporary cuisine can enjoy the sight of informal models (on Fridays) displaying some of the finest couture, but it also offers an outdoor patio that affords diners a beautiful view. On a clear day, you can see as far as Catalina island, Palos Verdes, and Mount Wilson.
Specifically, what Palmer loves most about Mariposa is not just simply cooking, but the creativity involved in being a true chef. “Chefs are artists. The daily specials are not faxed in,” he says, while noting that some of the restaurant’s traditional items, like its famous popovers, will always be served. “The company [Neiman Marcus] gives me the freedom and creativity that many restaurants don’t. And if you have freedom to be creative, it makes it that much more fun.”
What does Palmer create? “I’m a simple chef in that I let the freshness of food speak for itself,” says Palmer. “Right now I have an heirloom tomato gazpacho soup on the menu. When you eat it, it’s like summer exploding in your mouth—a vitamin rush. Palmer’s own favorite dish is the grilled shrimp salad. “Most restaurants overcook romaine lettuce,” says Palmer. “We permeate the lettuce, then add Mexican white gumbo shrimp, and finish off with light caesar dressing topped with salty feta cheese.”
More specifically, what Palmer prepares depends on the season, time of day, and who’s eating. Most often, this is lunch cuisine for the sophisticated Neiman Marcus clientele. Palmer is pleased to serve this demographic in particular because they are fabulous culinary critics, demanding a standard of excellence, just as they do with fashion. “If I make a dish for a shopper at Neiman Marcus, and they enjoy it, that means something. I get requests for recipes every day. It’s such a fantastic feeling.” However, Palmer also caters for all of Neiman Marcus’s in-house events. This includes charity affairs, fashion shows, and launch parties. Thus, for the launch of Shu Uemura—a Japanese cosmetic line—Palmer prepared delicious Japanese food to match the evening’s theme.
If Palmer’s cuisine sounds good to you, he’ll be the first to recommend that you stick around for a dessert by pastry chef Sumalar Saisombat. Or, if you’re in the mood for some libation, check out the trendy, but low-key, Bar on 3. Palmer’s feedback and consultation went into many of the watering hole’s most refreshing items. Finally, once you’re completely satisfied, Palmer bids you farewell...that is, until next time. But don’t expect to leave anytime soon. You still have three floors of eye-catching designer labels to pass through on your way out. This may take a little time.

—David Krissman